How to make a Hydrogen Booster Yourself
(Since you cannot buy one at the Autozone you make it yourself.
For some reason you don't find Hydro-Boosters for sale in the USA,
but they do make them in Canada for truckers. In future you will find
many companies making them. For now you can make one yourself.


This low cost DIY HHO booster cell system works real well! $350 total
Fits under the hood of a pickup truck. $75 for the 316Lss plates & parts.
Filter housing w/bracket $40 • Isolation kit $36 Then add a tank, hoses &
clamps for $35 Add a U solder PWM kit - $75 Make 75% ortho hydrogen,
just below the deutruim level of HHO gas called Hydroxy Gas®!!
Add a VOLO FS2 chip $89.95 or if OBD I add an EFIE
Total of $350.00 for a HIGH QUALITY DIY HHO GAS KIT!


Hydrogen Garage Online Parts Store
Open since 4/07
We are shipping parts daily! Money back guarantee
(8/1/13)

Makes 1.5 liters per minute at 15 amps, and no anode red mud produced.
plates will last 10 years+ Excite it with a square wave pulse $28 DIY PWM kit
and make the2.4x's more powerful Ortho Hydrogen

More DIY HHO Systems are here : HHO4FREE.com

Patrick Kelly has a list of Hydrogen Booster here scrowl down the page.

Also : Browns Gas dot calm has lists of hydrogen boosters for sale.

The first Hydrogen Booster was invented in 1918. Go read the history behind it all first.

Many people don't buy the idea that a hydrogen booster will do anything. If they were so great the car manufactures would be making them already. Well, not yet. In 2008 we will start to see the emerging technology. Also know that there are 240 US and International patents on fuel injection systems that get 150-250 mpg! and ZERO are being made today. So why would you think that they will not allow hydrogen boosters to be manufactured? They allow them in Canada. In China they have about 4,000 engineers researching Brown's Gas Generators, they sell for about $300 US dollars in Taiwan and China. They are not allowed to be imported into the US. We cannot switch to water as a fuel overnight, it has to
be a gradual change.

You should be a mechanic type, handy person with a shop or garage with a loud stereo system. You will be tinkering with this thing from time to time. I did not tell you to make one, I'm just showing you how easy it is to make. I'm not liable for your mistakes, Remember safety is no accident. Alot of friends will think you are going to blow yourself up. You are not making a hydrogen bomb. All the egas that this unit makes will be burned up, as you drive. At most up to 5 lbs of egas pressure may build up, it is all this unit will make. It just adds more horsepower, helps complete the burn of all fuel and cleans your carbons deposits, cleans your emissions. I love to have my hydro-booster all running good, for my old truck, it works great. You will save at the pumps, you will clean out the carbon in your engine, you will pass the SMOG test easy. You will have more power. Your engine will last longer. You will be stoked you did it yourself. You will learn about how easy it is to make hydrogen/oxygen as a fuel.

Start off with an older car or truck. I don't recommend to install one of these in a any new car, it may void your warranty. These boosters are meant to mend an old car. Save the vehicle, recycle the engine, clean out the carbons, increase gas mileage by 25%. Honda Civic have know to get 50% better gas mileage. that is a great savings at the pump. Older cars are easier to lean the gas/air ratio mix, before the ECU :engine computers came out around 1990 with OBD I and OBDII came out around 1996 on.

Below is photos of an older design, made from Home Depot cheap SS switch plates. They will last about 3 - 12 months, depending on how many amps you run. See results.

MORE OLDER HHO CELL DESIGNS 1 and 2



My 3rd cell was 7 Stainless steel wall switch covers. $1.78 each (got the idea from Bryan) and 1/4" SS steel threaded rod and SS 1/4" nuts & washers. 1/4" rubber grommets for insulators. The plates are drilled for 1/4" thread on one side and the opposite side is a 1/2" hole with a rubber grommet in the 1/2" hole. I use 1/4" hose pieces to help space the plates from touching. If the plates touch you get a short.

12 volts between the plates will produce a good supply of egas with little electrolyte, but beware of the corrosion factor. This 2001 idea was scraped.

See the "New Improved Design"

 

Older designs


I used 4" ABS threaded cap & sleeve. I found a 4" 1/4" acrylic pipe, but I recommend a clear water filter housing as pictured below. Make the cell fit your space under the hood. 8"-12" tall. The top thread Stainless Steel (304 grade) is positive (anode) and the lower threaded rod is negative. (cathode) I used 7 switch plates and went (-+-+-+-)One more cathode to produce more hydrogen than oxygen. You get 2 H to one O.

Wiring Diagram

 


Essential Ingredient

Download Captain
Patrick's 3 .pdf files
of his clear instructions
on how to make
hydrogen cells
123
(from the hydroxy
group files section)



Contact WPC for more
information.

More Car
Electrolysers


Water as Fuel

More Car
Electrolysers

 

Previous Designs 2001


This cell ran for about a year. I used SS
screen for the cathode (-) hydrogen gas & just 1/4" rod for the anode (+)
I figure the screen would take place of SS discs with many holes drilled. The egas seams to come off the edges of the SS (stainless steel) It ran 12 volts, in which cooks the electrodes but steam cleans the carbon out of your fuel injection system. Now we go 2 volts.

Why is it colored red-brown? They call it "anode mud" oxidized iron and minerals. Way less now due to change over to 2 volts.


Before photo and one year later.
The unit will make red sludge that
you will have to clean out once a month.
I made mine to take out easy. New plans
reduce this problem with the use of neutral plates to absorb voltage. Voltage in electrolysis equals heat. 1.8 volts id best. 2-3-4 volts OK.

Simple Wiring

One side (cathode) (-) is grounded to the car's frame the other (anode) is hooked up to a 25 amp fused thick wire (10-12 gauge braided copper wire, buy a spool at the auto parts store), 12 volts (+). I hooked up a simple auto accessory relay ($5.00) and a dash mounted switch ($5.00) What the relay does is, it allows the switch to get an 1 amp or so, current , while the relay turned on takes up to 25 amps coming straight form the battery (+). This way you can use a 5 amp rated cheap switch rather than a 25 amp switch. Remember the more amps the thicker the wires need to be. DC needs thick wires or you start to lose amperage. To have efficient egas, you only need 2 volts, the extra 10 volts does nothing but heat up your cell water. I'm no electronic wizard, so I left it simple. There are circuits on the hydroxy yahoo group files. I say "join today and learn all you wanted to know about running a water powered car. See diagram


Photo of the DC PWM circuit

DC pulsed motor Controller
A simple solder kit for $28.00 plus shipping. It can take 12 volts up to 25 amps, it has a 555 mosfet that pulses the signal much like AC does already. The pulsing action at the right frequency (about 8, on a pot. 1-10) helps in more egas production. The Hydro Booster will work without it, but to add more egas what the hay. You hook up a Pot, to the circuit and you dial it in till it bubbles the most. This is why clear filter housing is good for experimenting, because you can watch the bubble action and show friends. They won't last forever, much like SS 4" pipe would be best for long time applications.


Photo of the New Hydro-Booster hooked up.

I have a one way check value, so engine by gasses will not come back into unit. So guys complain about backfire, I never encounter backfiring. I have it hooked to the vacuum in at idling and also to the throat of the carb.

Another way to hook up the outgas hose is to your vaccum system. "Tee" into the PCV chec value coming out of your manifold cover, that goes into your carburator, thi s way you don't lose any of the hydrogen/oxygen egas, also you will need to add a airline that goes to the bottom of your cell. Have the air line go into your cell at the bottom so it helps push the egas through to your fuel source. Put a value on the air in, so you can play around with little or alot of bubble action. You only need a slight pinhole to achieve the bubble action.

The brawny booster works good so far. I have not checked my mileage lately. You can also install a MAP sensor potentimeter and adjust down your air to fuel ratio (14.7 to 1) to (14.7 to 100:1) by turning a dial.
Bypass your oxy. sensor too. Don't try it at home. You can buy the plans here, but not from me. I don't sell anything yet, or may never.
I'm just handing out the hints to be a successful happy fuel saver.

Now the Electrolyte
It's not a atomic separator/fuel cell, it's just a battery.

You got it all installed. With the filter housing you can use 4" 3/8" 'U' bolts from any hardware store. I made a 1/8" steel plate holder. MacGiver it baby. Gerry Rig helped me. See photo above. I use 12 volts with 25 amp fuses as to not burn up my DC pulsar. Peter has 80 amp fuses? Sounds like a breaker box fuse? He uses 2 volts at 70 amps or more. Fill the unit with rainwater or any water, some use distilled, it does not matter, you will be taking it out to clean it up, once your amps go down. Fill up to the top of the switch plates with water and 1-3% KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) from a chemical supply house. You will pay more for hazardous shipping than you will for the chemical. We found this is the best electrolyte, it is a base, rather than an acid. Sulfuric acid works but corrodes things faster. Lye works too, but puts off weird fumes and also attacks and melts some plastics. ALso once you get the unit going you never add electrolyte again until you clean it out. You just add water, because the electrolyte stays in the container and does not separate into H-O gas.

Next. Start the car and drive. A good way to check gas mileage is to fill your tank to the top (top it off) go drive around for a week and fill it up again to the top, at the same pump at the same gas station. So the car is level as the last fill up. Read the gas pump meter for gallons. And there you have it. Miles Per Gallon. Any questions?


Some recommend reading
Brown's Gas Book II
George A Wisemen
In this book we give comprehensive details on how to build a large or small, high quality, experimental electrolyzer that will exceed the performance of ANY known commercial electrolyzer. Example, you can build an electrolyzer that will put out 1,000 Liters per hour. Previously, this volume of Brown's Gas was only available by buying a $10,000 USD electrolyzer.


Some recommend reading
"Fuel From Water" by
Michael A Peavey
Explains different applications with cars running on hydrogen and egas from experiment to commercial applications, the history of hydrogen the inventors, etc. Full of information and know how.



More recommend reading
"Water Car" by James Robey
James is Curator of the
1st Water Fuel Museum in
history!
This book ($24)
tells a brief history of most all of the water as fuel inventors 1799 till now. The book includes patents and news articles, claims, etc. Information
your not suppose to read. Jump on the bandwagon of water as fuel enthusiasts and turn this planet on it's head to the right direction! We need desperately to break away from an Energy Admin. devoted entirely to you buying gallons of dirty polluting gasoline resulting in a Smoggy dying planet.

 

* WARNING * LEGAL DISCLAIMER • WARNING *

Making combustible Oxy/Hydrogen gas from water is a real explosive gas and should be treated with respect and can be a dangerous activity. Even as gasoline is a highly flammable, it has caused bad accidents. Since you cannot go buy an manufactured hydrogen Booster at it is at the home shop level, as a Do It YOURSELF project. If you plan to make a hydrogen booster from these ideas I'm sharing and giving away, you do so at your own risk and your own responsibility. Please be safe. The main rule is no spark outside of the water in your cell, don't touch your wire connections as the unit is running, it may cause a spark and a leaking egas hose will ignite! Your output hose cannot leak! Just like your fuel line cannot be leaking all over a hot exhaust manifold. Also hook a switch up under the dash so you can turn it off while the car is not running. I have mine hooked up to the ignition wiring, so it is only ON, when the ignition is ON. Remember safety is no accident. You know best when you are ready.

Other links to more Hydro-boosters

HIMACHydrogen-BoostBetter MileageThe Water Fuel Cell
Eagle Research Commute Faster Car Electrolyser


The Best Water Group Files

Hydrogen GarageHydroxyWatercarWaterfuel1978Radiant Energy OUPower

CommuteFaster.comEgasPower Back to the Index

updated 1/16/08