Previous Designs 2001
This cell ran for about a year. I used SS
screen for the cathode (-) hydrogen gas & just 1/4" rod for the anode (+)
I figure the screen would take place of SS discs with many holes drilled. The egas seams to come off the edges of the SS (stainless steel) It ran 12 volts, in which cooks the electrodes but steam cleans the carbon out of your fuel injection system. Now we go 2 volts.
Why is it colored red-brown? They call it "anode mud" oxidized iron and minerals. Way less now due to change over to 2 volts.
Before photo and one year later.
The unit will make red sludge that
you will have to clean out once a month.
I made mine to take out easy. New plans
reduce this problem with the use of neutral plates to absorb voltage. Voltage in electrolysis equals heat. 1.8 volts id best. 2-3-4 volts OK.
One side (cathode) (-) is grounded to the car's frame the other (anode) is hooked up to a 25 amp fused thick wire (10-12 gauge braided copper wire, buy a spool at the auto parts store), 12 volts (+). I hooked up a simple auto accessory relay ($5.00) and a dash mounted switch ($5.00) What the relay does is, it allows the switch to get an 1 amp or so, current , while the relay turned on takes up to 25 amps coming straight form the battery (+). This way you can use a 5 amp rated cheap switch rather than a 25 amp switch. Remember the more amps the thicker the wires need to be. DC needs thick wires or you start to lose amperage. To have efficient egas, you only need 2 volts, the extra 10 volts does nothing but heat up your cell water. I'm no electronic wizard, so I left it simple. There are circuits on the hydroxy yahoo group files. I say "join today and learn all you wanted to know about running a water powered car. See diagram
Photo of the DC PWM circuit |
DC pulsed motor Controller
A simple solder kit for $28.00 plus shipping. It can take 12 volts up to 25 amps, it has a 555 mosfet that pulses the signal much like AC does already. The pulsing action at the right frequency (about 8, on a pot. 1-10) helps in more egas production. The Hydro Booster will work without it, but to add more egas what the hay. You hook up a Pot, to the circuit and you dial it in till it bubbles the most. This is why clear filter housing is good for experimenting, because you can watch the bubble action and show friends. They won't last forever, much like SS 4" pipe would be best for long time applications.
|Photo of the New Hydro-Booster hooked up. |
I have a one way check value, so engine by gasses will not come back into unit. So guys complain about backfire, I never encounter backfiring. I have it hooked to the vacuum in at idling and also to the throat of the carb.
Another way to hook up the outgas hose is to your vaccum system. "Tee" into the PCV chec value coming out of your manifold cover, that goes into your carburator, thi s way you don't lose any of the hydrogen/oxygen egas, also you will need to add a airline that goes to the bottom of your cell. Have the air line go into your cell at the bottom so it helps push the egas through to your fuel source. Put a value on the air in, so you can play around with little or alot of bubble action. You only need a slight pinhole to achieve the bubble action.
The brawny booster works good so far. I have not checked my mileage lately. You can also install a MAP sensor potentimeter and adjust down your air to fuel ratio (14.7 to 1) to (14.7 to 100:1) by turning a dial.
Bypass your oxy. sensor too. Don't try it at home. You can buy the plans here, but not from me. I don't sell anything yet, or may never.
I'm just handing out the hints to be a successful happy fuel saver.
Now the Electrolyte
It's not a atomic separator/fuel cell, it's just a battery.
You got it all installed. With the filter housing you can use 4" 3/8" 'U' bolts from any hardware store. I made a 1/8" steel plate holder. MacGiver it baby. Gerry Rig helped me. See photo above. I use 12 volts with 25 amp fuses as to not burn up my DC pulsar. Peter has 80 amp fuses? Sounds like a breaker box fuse? He uses 2 volts at 70 amps or more. Fill the unit with rainwater or any water, some use distilled, it does not matter, you will be taking it out to clean it up, once your amps go down. Fill up to the top of the switch plates with water and 1-3% KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) from a chemical supply house. You will pay more for hazardous shipping than you will for the chemical. We found this is the best electrolyte, it is a base, rather than an acid. Sulfuric acid works but corrodes things faster. Lye works too, but puts off weird fumes and also attacks and melts some plastics. ALso once you get the unit going you never add electrolyte again until you clean it out. You just add water, because the electrolyte stays in the container and does not separate into H-O gas.
Next. Start the car and drive. A good way to check gas mileage is to fill your tank to the top (top it off) go drive around for a week and fill it up again to the top, at the same pump at the same gas station. So the car is level as the last fill up. Read the gas pump meter for gallons. And there you have it. Miles Per Gallon. Any questions?
Some recommend reading
Brown's Gas Book II
George A Wisemen
In this book we give comprehensive details on how to build a large or small, high quality, experimental electrolyzer that will exceed the performance of ANY known commercial electrolyzer. Example, you can build an electrolyzer that will put out 1,000 Liters per hour. Previously, this volume of Brown's Gas was only available by buying a $10,000 USD electrolyzer.
Some recommend reading
"Fuel From Water" by
Michael A Peavey
Explains different applications with cars running on hydrogen and egas from experiment to commercial applications, the history of hydrogen the inventors, etc. Full of information and know how.
More recommend reading
"Water Car" by James Robey
James is Curator of the
1st Water Fuel Museum in
history! This book ($24)
tells a brief history of most all of the water as fuel inventors 1799 till now. The book includes patents and news articles, claims, etc. Information
your not suppose to read. Jump on the bandwagon of water as fuel enthusiasts and turn this planet on it's head to the right direction! We need desperately to break away from an Energy Admin. devoted entirely to you buying gallons of dirty polluting gasoline resulting in a Smoggy dying planet.
* WARNING * LEGAL DISCLAIMER • WARNING *
Making combustible Oxy/Hydrogen gas from water is a real explosive gas and should be treated with respect and can be a dangerous activity. Even as gasoline is a highly flammable, it has caused bad accidents. Since you cannot go buy an manufactured hydrogen Booster at it is at the home shop level, as a Do It YOURSELF project. If you plan to make a hydrogen booster from these ideas I'm sharing and giving away, you do so at your own risk and your own responsibility. Please be safe. The main rule is no spark outside of the water in your cell, don't touch your wire connections as the unit is running, it may cause a spark and a leaking egas hose will ignite! Your output hose cannot leak! Just like your fuel line cannot be leaking all over a hot exhaust manifold. Also hook a switch up under the dash so you can turn it off while the car is not running. I have mine hooked up to the ignition wiring, so it is only ON, when the ignition is ON. Remember safety is no accident. You know best when you are ready.
Other links to more Hydro-boosters
HIMAC • Hydrogen-Boost • Better Mileage • The Water Fuel Cell
• Eagle Research • Commute Faster • Car Electrolyser
The Best Water Group Files
Hydrogen Garage • Hydroxy • Watercar • Waterfuel1978 • Radiant Energy • OUPower
CommuteFaster.com • EgasPower • Back to the Index